Honeymoon Roadtrip, Day 4: Yellowstone

Tuesday, June 3: From South Dakota to Wyoming

We got up early and hit the road, opting to pick up breakfast on the way instead of taking time in the morning to cook. We got coffee and tea at the Bank Coffee House in Custer, a really cool little coffee shop that used to be an old bank, complete with vault doors. Though it was out of the way, we had planned to make a stop at Devil’s Tower. While we were driving on a 2-lane highway, we saw a truck come around a turn with a white flag waving out the driver side window. We weren’t sure what it meant, so we slowed down. As soon as we went around the turn, we learned quickly; several cowboys were driving a herd of cattle up the road.

cowboy

cowboy

Since we still had a long drive ahead of us, our stop at Devil’s Tower was pretty quick. We took several pictures, filled up on gas and snacks, and got back on track.

Devil's Tower selfie

Devil’s Tower selfie

close encounters!

close encounters!

Our last stop was in Cody, Wyoming, to pick up groceries, beer, and bear spray, as we were now entering bear country. The woman at the grocery store warned us to not leave the spray in our car because the can could explode in the heat, and that is one car you’ll never get into again.

We finally arrived in Yellowstone around 7:30 pm. Almost immediately, we encountered bighorn sheep hanging out on a ledge near the road.

bighorn sheep

bighorn sheep

As we drove into the park towards our reserved site at Canyon Campground, we quickly learned that when you saw other cars pulled off to the side of the road, there must be wildlife nearby. If there was something close enough to be photographed, a crowd of people would be standing on the shoulder with cameras out like they were TMZ paparazzi. Within our first hour in the park, we saw pronghorns, bison, elk, and two black bears–one from a distance using binoculars, and the second fairly close to the road where several people watched from safely inside their cars. Almost immediately, a ranger pulled up in his truck and stepped out to investigate, brandishing bear spray in case of an emergency, but the bear had come and gone quickly. Kurt got a good look, but I only saw its butt as it retreated into the woods.

elk

elk

Having just seen two bears made it slightly unnerving to set up our tent outside, especially after the ranger who checked us in warned us that bears had been seen near the campgrounds recently, so we should be sure to leave all food and drinks in the car. “The only things that go in your tent are you and your sleeping bags,” she said. The campgrounds were quite nice, with a nearby restroom, bear-proof recycling, and an indoor dishwashing station.

our Yellowstone campsite

our Yellowstone campsite

Since we had rolled in so late, we ate dinner in the lodge and enjoyed a cold beer. Afterward, we made a nice warm fire at our site, as the temperature had dropped to make it the coldest night yet of our trip. We slept warm and cozy in our tent with the bear spray close by our side.

Wildlife sightings: elk, bison, two black beers, pronghorns, bighorn sheep

Honeymoon Roadtrip, Day 3: the Black Hills

Monday, June 2: Mt. Rushmore, Black Hills National Forest

In the morning, we attempted another hike into Badlands backcountry near Prairie Dog Town, but were quickly defeated by the muddy conditions. Bison were plentiful on the road, crossing from one plain to the next. We watched them cross the street from inside our car; one curious bison walked right up to us and gave the hood of the Subaru a good sniff.

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bison surround our car

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more bison on the road

After saying goodbye to the Badlands, we headed to Mt. Rushmore. As expected, there were plenty of crowds out on the perfect sunny day. Unexpectedly, we learned that you can buy a “Red Rally Racer” at the concession stands, which is a cherry slushie with a shot of vodka or tequila. God bless American, indeed.

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Mt. Rushmore

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diamond doll

After leaving Rushmore, we took a scenic drive through Black Hills National Forest and Custer State Park. On a wildlife viewing loop in Custer, we saw bison galore, pronghorns, elk, and mule deer.

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pronghorns

We set up camp at the Bismarck Lake campground and kicked back with a bottle of wine while reading our guidebooks. Overnight, some loud thunderstorms rolled through, but our little tent held up like a champ. Next stop: Yellowstone!

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our Black Hills campsite

 

Sites visited: Mt. Rushmore, Custer State Park, Black Hills National Forest
Wildlife sightings: bison and calves, pronghorns, elk, mule deer, wild turkeys

Honeymoon Roadtrip, Day 2: Exploring the Badlands

Sunday, June 1: Our first full day

We woke up and cooked a breakfast of scrambled eggs with sausage and veggies using a pan and Jetboil on our front porch. In the light of day, we saw that ours was the third Subaru Forester in a row on our block of cabins. After breakfast we checked out of our cabin and began to explore the park. There were several short hikes that we completed, including one known for its spectacular view that came with a warning “not for those afraid of heights.”

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Yikes!

I am pretty acrophobic, but I gave it a shot and climbed the ladder that took us to the next part of the trail. The view was indeed fantastic, which I enjoyed a nice and safe full 5 feet away from the edge.

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Kurt is braver than I am when it comes to heights

After we finished hiking, we left the park to check out Wall Drug (where we purchased the mounted jackalope head I’ve always wanted because I am a weirdo) and tried to see the Minuteman Missile Site, which was sadly and inexplicably closed. On the way back, we drove the Badlands Scenic Loop, keeping an eye out for bison. Sure enough, we spotted their distinctive shapes dotting the green meadows. Once we got to the primitive campground at Sage Creek, we saw a few more hanging out about 200 yards away on a hill, grazing calmly. The forecast called for rain, so we quickly set up our tent and cracked open a few local beers we had picked up at the grocery store in Sioux Falls. After a brief rain passed, Kurt and I got in one more quick hike towards the river, coming across yet another bison on the way. It was our closest view of one yet, and their size was impressive. Though they seem pretty chill, they can be aggressive and do serious damage with their horns, so we kept a respectable distance. The wet ground acted like clay, clumping to our boots with each step. It made it difficult to hike very far, so we headed back to camp to clean ourselves up and relax before night fell.

our first campsite of the trip

our first campsite of the trip

As the sun went down, other hikers staying at the campgrounds slowly returned from their explorations. A neighboring camper remarked that he had heard coyotes yipping at him. Sure enough, as we slept in our tents that night we could hear the howls and yips of the pack.

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diamond doll at the Badlands

Sites visited: Wall Drug, Minuteman Missile Site
Wildlife sightings: bison, bighorn sheep, jackalope (heh), coyotes (heard only)

Honeymoon Roadtrip, Day 1: the Badlands

Saturday, May 31, 2014: we hit the road 

photo 1

packing up the Subaru

Kurt and I set the alarm bright and early for 5 am to get a head start on our longest day of driving (12 hours total). After saying goodbye to our dog River and my parents (who cared for her during our 2-week trip), we left their house in the Chicago suburbs and set out for South Dakota. The drive was mostly uneventful, though we did have to make a few stops to refasten one of the kayaks to the roof of our car. The high winds on the road pushed and pulled on the kayaks enough to crack one of the brackets on our roof rack, which we tightened back in place with heavy duty straps. Finally, we got the kayaks secure and were able to finish the drive.

photo 2

we arrive!

We arrived at Badlands National Park a little after 8 pm local time. Almost immediately, we saw several female bighorn sheep cross the road in front of our car and shoot up the side of a craggy ridge. Since we knew we’d be rolling into the park pretty late and didn’t want to deal with setting up a tent after such a long day in the car, we had rented a cabin at Cedar Pass within the park. We grabbed a late dinner of fry bread and bison burgers, checked into our cabin, and relaxed on the adirondack chairs on our porch with cold beers in hand, watching a lightning storm in the distance. It was a near perfect start to our adventure.

photo 3

female bighorn sheep

States passed through: Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota
Wildlife sightings: female bighorn sheep, wild horses

 

Honeymoon Road Trip

Kurt and I just returned from our honeymoon roadtrip to South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana. Neither of us had been to the Great Plains states before, and it was also the first time for both of us to visit Yellowstone and Glacier National Park.  Here is a photo of our route. Over the next few weeks, I will  post a day-by-day account along with photos, wildlife sightings, and more.

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Alaska, Day 9: Heading Home

Saturday, July 28: goodbye, Alaska

Since the RV had to be returned by 11, we woke up bright and early at 6:30 am to pack up, clean, and hit the road. After we got off the bumpy gravel road and back onto the main highway, we took care of filling the propane and visiting one last dump station. Kurt drove while I napped a little, and we had our two final wildlife sightings near Girdwood–a grazing moose and two large buffalo or oxen.

After we returned the RV, we had 7 hours to kill before we needed to go to the airport, so we had the rental place drop us off at Dimond Mall. We chowed down at a Mexican restaurant (there’s nothing less authentically Alaskan than a chimichanga) and walked around the mall for a bit. It was a gargantuan building with a bowling alley and ice skating rink on the lower level.

mall skating rink and bowling alley

We went to see Dark Knight Rises to kill some time. Somebody brought their dog into the theater, which was interesting. After the movie, we took a taxi to the airport and stocked up on magazines and snacks for the flight home to Chicago (once again, by way of Dallas-Ft. Worth).

goodbye Alaska

I’ve really enjoyed reliving the trip through these recaps, and it’s bittersweet to find myself on the last entry. It’s like saying goodbye to Alaska all over again. It was truly one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had. While we were there, we couldn’t help but start planning the next trip in our heads. I’d love to go back to Denali and do some backcountry camping, visit Kodiak Island, try an overnight kayak trip, see the cat mayor of Talkeetna, dip into the hot springs in Chena, and so much more.

Here’s a few more of my favorite pictures from a truly incredible 9 days.

group shot during Savage River hike

Denali National Park

Kenai National Wildlife Refuge

Alaska, Day 8: Kenai, Soldotna, and Sterling

Friday, July 27, 2012: fishing frenzy

Grrrrrr!

We woke up and headed out to explore our campgrounds, since we hadn’t been able to look around much the previous night. Kurt headed down to Swanson River to do some fishing, while I walked along the beach to check out the view of the active volcanoes across Cook Inlet.

volcano coast

After breakfast, we drove back down the coast to Kenai, where we stumbled upon a crowd of fishermen at the mouth of Kenai River. During the salmon season, net fishing is allowed for Alaskan residents only. The edges of the river were crammed with people holding nets as salmon seemed to literally jump right into them. The beach was covered with fishheads while people cleaned their catch on top of bloody coolers (I don’t want to imagine what their ride home smelled like). It was a real family event, with a bouncy tent set up near the end of the beach and kids running around dumping fish guts at their dads’ request. In the water, sea lions hunted the leaping fish, joining in on the big feast.

fishermen and families

this sight was typical

After watching for an hour or so, we walked around Kenai and checked out some souvenir shops, an art gallery, and split a reindeer hot dog. We had an RV site reserved for the night, but when we arrived we saw that it was along a busy road with no greenery nearby and no campfires allowed. Since it was prepaid, we decided to take advantage of the showers and water/electric hookups to load up the RV, then we left in search of a more scenic place to spend the night. And boy, did we find it. After a teeth-jolting ride on a bumpy, 13-mile-long backroad, we came to Dolly Varden Lake in Kenai National Wilderness Refuge. Our site was in a wooded area right next to the lake, with a gorgeous view. As our friend Thomas later said of this picture “You two get out of the way of the Bob Ross painting.”

me and Kurt at last campsite

We sat in camping chairs facing the lake, enjoying our last Alaskan beers, fishing, and watching wildlife on the lake. A beaver swam along the opposite shore; its head was so big at first we thought it might be a bear. The sky got dark enough for the North Star to shine through. It was a perfect final night in Alaska.

the moon appears

Wildlife sightings: sea lions, salmon, beaver, ducks

Alaska, Day 7: Exit Glacier

Thursday, July 26, 2012: glaciers and volcanoes

We said goodbye to our Seward campsite and otter friends and headed back towards Anchorage, stopping at Exit Glacier on the way. The glacier is derived from the Harding icefield in the Kenai Mountains.  We went on a hike on the trail that takes you close to the glacier itself. As we passed through the forested parts of the trail, the bugs were pretty terrible. It stood out because for the most part, mosquitos weren’t nearly as bad as I had predicted before the trip (everything we read ahead warned us to prepare for horrible bugs, even recommending headnets).  Besides the trip to Exit, the mosquitos in Alaska were not even as close to what I am used to dealing with while camping in Wisconsin.

Kurt in front of Exit Glacier

The closer we got to the glacier, however, the more the bugs thinned out. The air grew crisper and cooler to the skin, like walking into a large freezer. It was incredibly refreshing and felt amazing after the uphill hike.  We could see the glacial rivers and waterfalls up close, as well as the crystal blue color of the icy crevices.

glacier blue

After Exit Glacier, it was a straight shot to Anchorage, where we said goodbye to Bob and Amy who had a late-night flight home. They were excellent RV-roommates and I highly recommend them for your traveling companion needs.

me, Kurt, Bob, and Amy in front of Exit Glacier

On our own, Kurt and I headed back down the Kenai peninsula, this time heading to the other coast and the Kenai/Soldotna area. We had not reserved an RV park site ahead of time so we set out to explore and find a good spot to camp out for the night. I saw some pretty awesome-looking taxidermy shops along the road, which we sadly never got to check out on our crazy schedule.

After consulting our camping book, we decided to drive further north from Kenai and try Discovery Campground in Captain Cook State Recreation Area, along the Cook Inlet shore. It was a nice, secluded woodsy spot, exactly what we had in mind after the beautiful-but-RV-packed Seward site. We arrived later in the evening, and the skies were starting to darken as it was getting later in the summer, but beyond the trees lining our campsite there was a scenic view of active volcanoes along the inlet coast.

our site at Discovery Campground

We made an easy dinner of hot dogs on sticks over the campfire, and Kurt entertained himself by whittling a ‘bear-killing stick.’ We hardly saw any neighbors, except for a truck full of twenty-somethings who drove past shouting “The British are coming!” You never know what kids these days are going to be into.

Kurt’s ‘bear-killing stick’

you get used to this kind of sign, but it helps to have a bear-killing stick

Cool geographic sightings: glacier, volcanoes, temperate rainforest