I wake up thinking, yeah I definitely did too much yesterday. We sleep in the latest we have all week. I’m ready to be lazy and I’m still craving a view of Mount Rainier, and there’s a clear forecast until noon, so we decide to take the gondola from Crystal Mountain Resort. We arrive within minutes of it opening, and it’s just us and about a dozen or so snowboarders hanging around.
Have I ever mentioned I’m terrified of heights? Probably once or twice? The gondola is an enclosed glass cube with two bench seats, and I manage to stay pretty calm during our 2,400-ft vertical ascent. At the summit, we’re greeted by a view of Mount Rainier through some wispy cloud coverage. Victory! The wind is whipping our hair around and I am extremely sketched out by the lack of railings around the brick walkway, but we get our summit photos then boot-scoot-boogie over to the restaurant at the top of the mountain for breakfast. We’re seated at a window facing Mt. Rainier so I get to stare at it to my heart’s content as I have my coffee and BLT. I live in Illinois; I’m going to savor this moment.
With our first mission accomplished, we leave Enumclaw and drive for an hour towards Snoqualmie. I’m extremely excited for this part of our trip because I’ve been a massive fan of the David Lynch/Mark Frost-created TV show Twin Peaks since it first aired (I was in sixth grade and didn’t really know what I was watching but I was intrigued. I later binge-watched the series on VHS in high school, and multiple times since). First thing first, we go to Twede’s Diner (a.ka. The Double R) so I can order a damn fine cup of coffee, black as midnight on a moonless night, with a slice of cherry pie.
I have an internet-gleaned list of filming locations on my to-do list, so one by one, we check them off. Ronette’s bridge, check. The Twin Peaks Sheriff’s Station, now a rally driving school with a view of the Packard Sawmill, check. (The incredibly nice woman at the front entrance even let me sit at Lucy’s desk for a photo.) The Salish Lodge & Spa (a.k.a. The Great Northern Hotel) and Snoqualmie Falls, check. Oh Diane, I almost forgot, got to find out what kind of trees these are! They’re really something.
We are staying at a bed&breakfast in Snoqualmie for the night, and our room overlooks the river with a view of the forest and mountains. Also, there’s a gigantic boulder in our room, which feels appropriately Twin Peaksian (also doesn’t hurt that behind the boulder we have a private sauna room).
The b&b owners drop us off a hot breakfast in a wicker basket in the morning (this is probably the closest I’ll ever get to a MacDowell residency experience). We eat our French toast bake, breakfast sausage, and berries and cream while drinking in the last of the view. It’s the last full day of our trip (sobs) but I’d like to live here in this exact spot forever if someone can please fly our dog and cat over for me.
The first task of the day is to return the van to the rental place. Goodbye, Kung Fu, you were a fantastic home for the past week. We take a Lyft to the Capitol Hill area of Seattle and drop our stuff off at our final Airbnb. I have one more pilgrimage I want to make; I want to visit the graves of Bruce Lee and Brandon Lee at Lake View Cemetery in the nearby-ish Volunteer Park. It’s gotten quite warm out, and I begin to get tired, sweaty, and grumpy. I kinda forgot until now that it’s summer. Whose idea was this? (Mine). Maybe we should quit (I shouldn’t quit, we’re almost there). My feet hurt and my back is sweaty. I’ve had a weird time managing my moods ever since I had covid. We reach the cemetery entrance and notice a steady stream of people headed in the same direction. The small crowd grows quiet and respectfully somber. From what I’ve read, Bruce Lee’s family chose Seattle as his resting place because it’s where he fell in love and spent the happiest years of his life. It’s moving to see and experience with strangers and fellow fans. I’m glad I didn’t give up just because my feet hurt.
For the rest of the day, Kurt and I take it easy sampling local beers, eating fresh poke, and topping everything off with a cocktail. My Gen X heart enjoys and appreciates Seattle. It gave us one of the best seasons of The Real World (“Kirrrraaa! I love you! It kills me!!! and you don’t even knowww!!!!”) Ironically, the first time I visited Seattle back in 2012 I was getting over whooping cough; hopefully someday I’ll come back here totally free of any sort of respiratory issues.
- Every part of Olympic National Park is so different and worth seeing. If you can, build time into your itinerary to get each kind of experience: the lakes and mountains, the Pacific Coast, the rain forests, etc.
- If you plan to stay at the Kalaloch Campgrounds (and you should!), book as early as possible for the best chance of getting one of the cliffside sites with a direct view of the ocean.
- The National Park webcams for spots like Hurricane Ridge are a handy way to check if visibility is good or not before trekking over.
- I’ve also found the NPS Instagram and Twitter accounts helpful for updates on parking lot wait times, road closures, and weather events.
- I upgraded my rain jacket a year ago and was definitely glad to have a good one for this trip. Along with rain pants, weather didn’t stop us from exploring.
- We used the app Tide Alert to check for low tide/negative tide for the day we explored tide pools.